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Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa

MOUNTAIN & EXPEDITION TEAM

Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa

Senior Expedition Leader

Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa is an experienced Himalayan mountaineer and expedition leader with more than two decades of experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Originally from Solukhumbu, he entered the trekking field after completing his SLC examination in 1996 and gradually developed his career in mountaineering.

Biography

The story of Lhakpa

2 min read

After several years in trekking, Lhakpa Gelbu became more focused on mountaineering. He climbed numerous trekking peaks before advancing to higher mountains and completing mountaineering and high-altitude training through the Nepal Mountaineering Association and other organizations.

His first successful ascent of an 8,000m peak came with Mount Lhotse in 2003. He then successfully climbed Mount Everest from the North Side in Tibet in 2004 and made his first successful ascent from the South Side in Nepal in 2007.

Since then, Everest has remained a major part of his mountaineering career. He has successfully summited Mount Everest 24 times between 2004 and 2026, climbing from both the northern and southern sides of the mountain. His experience also extends to Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam, Himlung Himal, and Putha Hiunchuli, among other Himalayan peaks.

At Summit 8000, Lhakpa Gelbu serves as an Senior Expedition Leader, bringing extensive experience in high-altitude climbing, expedition operations, route management, mountain safety, and Sherpa team leadership.

Mount Everest — 24 Summits

Year

Route

2004

Tibet

2005

Nepal

2006

Tibet

2007

Nepal

2008

Nepal

2009

Tibet

2010

Tibet

2011

Tibet

2012

Nepal

2013

Tibet

2014

Tibet

2016

Nepal

2017

Nepal

2018

Tibet

2019

Nepal

2020

Nepal

2021

Nepal

2022, 2022

Nepal

2023

Nepal

2024, 2024

Nepal

2025

Nepal

2026

Nepal

Major Summits

  • Mount Everest (8,848m) — 24 Summits

  • Mount Cho Oyu (8,188m) — 12 Summits

  • Mount Manaslu (8,163m) — 9 Summits

  • Mount Lhotse (8,516m) — 3 Summits

  • Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m) — 3 Summits

  • Mount Shishapangma (8,027m) — 3 Summits

  • Mount Himlung Himal (7,126m) — 9 Summits

  • Mount Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) — 4 Summits

  • Ama Dablam (6,812m) — 13 Summits

Notable Achievements

  • 24× Mount Everest Summiteer

  • More than 20 years of high-altitude mountaineering experience

  • Everest ascents from both Nepal and Tibet

  • First Everest summit in 2004

  • First successful South Side Everest summit in 2007

  • Climbed Lhotse and Everest within 15 days in 2008

  • Extensive experience on multiple 8,000m and 7,000m peaks

  • Long-term experience in high-altitude expedition operations

Areas of Expertise

  • Expedition Leadership

  • High-Altitude Mountaineering

  • 8,000m Expedition Operations

  • Mountain Safety

  • Route Management

  • Sherpa Team Leadership

  • Expedition Planning & Coordination

  • High-Altitude Risk Management

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