
MOUNTAIN & EXPEDITION TEAM
Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa
Senior Expedition Leader
Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa is an experienced Himalayan mountaineer and expedition leader with more than two decades of experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Originally from Solukhumbu, he entered the trekking field after completing his SLC examination in 1996 and gradually developed his career in mountaineering.
Biography
The story of Lhakpa
2 min read
After several years in trekking, Lhakpa Gelbu became more focused on mountaineering. He climbed numerous trekking peaks before advancing to higher mountains and completing mountaineering and high-altitude training through the Nepal Mountaineering Association and other organizations.
His first successful ascent of an 8,000m peak came with Mount Lhotse in 2003. He then successfully climbed Mount Everest from the North Side in Tibet in 2004 and made his first successful ascent from the South Side in Nepal in 2007.
Since then, Everest has remained a major part of his mountaineering career. He has successfully summited Mount Everest 24 times between 2004 and 2026, climbing from both the northern and southern sides of the mountain. His experience also extends to Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam, Himlung Himal, and Putha Hiunchuli, among other Himalayan peaks.
At Summit 8000, Lhakpa Gelbu serves as an Senior Expedition Leader, bringing extensive experience in high-altitude climbing, expedition operations, route management, mountain safety, and Sherpa team leadership.
Mount Everest — 24 Summits
Year | Route |
2004 | Tibet |
2005 | Nepal |
2006 | Tibet |
2007 | Nepal |
2008 | Nepal |
2009 | Tibet |
2010 | Tibet |
2011 | Tibet |
2012 | Nepal |
2013 | Tibet |
2014 | Tibet |
2016 | Nepal |
2017 | Nepal |
2018 | Tibet |
2019 | Nepal |
2020 | Nepal |
2021 | Nepal |
2022, 2022 | Nepal |
2023 | Nepal |
2024, 2024 | Nepal |
2025 | Nepal |
2026 | Nepal |
Major Summits
Mount Everest (8,848m) — 24 Summits
Mount Cho Oyu (8,188m) — 12 Summits
Mount Manaslu (8,163m) — 9 Summits
Mount Lhotse (8,516m) — 3 Summits
Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m) — 3 Summits
Mount Shishapangma (8,027m) — 3 Summits
Mount Himlung Himal (7,126m) — 9 Summits
Mount Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) — 4 Summits
Ama Dablam (6,812m) — 13 Summits
Notable Achievements
24× Mount Everest Summiteer
More than 20 years of high-altitude mountaineering experience
Everest ascents from both Nepal and Tibet
First Everest summit in 2004
First successful South Side Everest summit in 2007
Climbed Lhotse and Everest within 15 days in 2008
Extensive experience on multiple 8,000m and 7,000m peaks
Long-term experience in high-altitude expedition operations
Areas of Expertise
Expedition Leadership
High-Altitude Mountaineering
8,000m Expedition Operations
Mountain Safety
Route Management
Sherpa Team Leadership
Expedition Planning & Coordination
High-Altitude Risk Management
Our team
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MOUNTAIN & EXPEDITION TEAM